METAL SURFACE CLEANING
The surface of the material you are working on should be clean and free of any dirt or grease. When working with Iron, Steel, or Aluminum you may want to remove rust and fire scale. When applying the Solvent Dyes or Metal Coatings to Resins, Epoxies, Glass, or any very high polished surface you may need to not only clean the surface but slightly abrade it also.
The best method of cleaning most materials is to sandblast. Different types of blasting material may be used in order to keep the surface, as you want it.
Wire wheels, or Scotch Brite Pads are another method of cleaning. Be careful not to leave any polishing compound on the surface.
Our metal cleaner is a great way to get the surface ready to work on. Sometimes mild acids are used but often they can interfere with the patina process to come later. Works on both ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
For use on Bronze, Brass, and Copper
- Apply the cleaner with a brush, sponge, or rag.
- Let stand on the metal for approximately 5 minutes.
- Rub with a red or green “Scotch Brite”
- Rinse with water.
- Repeat if necessary.
- Dry the surface.
- Apply the desired finish to the metal surface.
For use on Iron, Steel, and Aluminum
- Use as above, except do not rinse with water-remove the cleaner with a clean cloth.
- Apply your desired finish immediately to the clean metal.
PATINAS
The patinas made by Sculpt Nouveau are all ready to use. These patinas are formulated so they may all be used in a cold patina technique. Please Note: The patinas with an * by their name may be used in a hot patina technique as well – with one exception, the Mint Green, it is an acid type patina but may be applied hot or cold.We find if using a non-acid patina * directly on clean metal it is best to heat the surface – as in the hot patina technique.
The * is also an indicator to show the patina does not contain an acid. This is important information if the material the patina is going on is Iron, Steel, or Aluminum because acids cause oxidation on these metals. Sometimes rust or oxidation is the desired finish, but it is best to have oxidation occur because you wanted it.
Our patinas change the color of the metal surface, they do not seal or protect from the environment. After the finish is complete we suggest a clear protective coating be applied, especially for Iron, Steel, and Aluminum.
With the exception of the acid green, brown, and blue patinas. We also offer books & videos as well as workshops in traditional patina formulation and application. Our patinas are meant to make applying a finish easier, more controllable, and if desired, more colorful. They may be used alone or in combination with other traditional formulas. For example, a base patina of Potash/Liver of Sulfur or an antiquing solution could first be applied to darken the surface before applying one of the Sculpt Nouveau patinas over it.
Before applying any patina to metal, the surface will need to be clean. If you have difficulties with adhesion it will more than likely be from oil or dirt on the surface. Patinas are easier to apply if the surface has a slight tooth to it.
Acid green & Blue patinas:
These patinas are cold application only. Cold acid patinas tend to cause a chalky substance on the surface; this is the nature of these patinas. When the formula is first applied the metal will lighten or turn pinkish. It is best to let the patina react out of direct sunlight in a moderate temperature. Apply the patina lightly with a sprayer (all plastic), sponge, or brush then wait for 2 to 3 hours to see the reaction.Reapply if needed to increase the patina color.Be patient.Try not to “puddle” the light green formula as it may pop off later.
These patinas will become very strong and part of the metal surface with time. If the material is going outdoors, we suggest applying a clear protective sealer to help while the patina sets.The clear sealer will take some of the patina color away at first but it will come back in time. For indoor work, a Matt Fix is all that is needed.
On Bronze, Brass, and Copper the patina will create the color indicated.On Iron, Steel, and Aluminum rust will occur.
PATINAS
Universal Patinas:
These patinas will become very strong and part of the metal surface with time.If the material is going outdoors, we suggest applying a clear protective sealer to help while the patina sets.The clear sealer will take some of the patina color away at first but it will come back in time.For indoor work, a Matt Fix is all that is needed.
Sculpt Nouveau’s Universal Patinas come in a wide range of colors.They do not contain acids; they are UV safe, indoor or outdoor oxides.These patinas may be applied hot or cold to any metal including Iron or Steel.If you do not use a torch to apply the patina (hot technique) t is good to heat the metal slightly in the sun or with a heat gun.
The Universal patinas bind onto the metal surface, they do not react.The colors of these patinas will remain the same; they will not change as with an acid patina.The metal surface needs to be clean before application.As with all of our products these patinas may be used together with any of the other patinas and dye oxides.We find if using this patina directly to clean metal it is best to heat the surface – as in the hot patina technique.
VISTA PATINAS
The Vista Patina Series are patinas that contain acids as well as oxides.This patina was first designed to give a constant green patina color.So many times with an acid patina the color will vary depending on the weather or so many other variables.The consistent color of the oxide is pulled into the acid reaction and a predictable patina is formed.After developing the Vista Green is was inevitable to create a rainbow of other colors following the same concept.
We use a strong green acid base and add patina oxides to it.The result on Bronze, Brass, and Copper is a two part, marbleized effect of a green patina plus the vista color.When used on Iron or Steel the green acid base will cause beautiful rust plus the vista color.
These are cold patinas only; (except for the Vista Green, it may be used hot as well) clean the metal surface before applying.The vista patinas may be applied in any manner: spray, sponge, or brush.Allow two to three hours to fully react.As with all cold acid patinas, try to apply out of direct sunlight and in moderate temperatures.The reaction may not take place because the patina dried too fast.
It is best not to later the vista patinas over each other.They tend to loose the colors.Use one vista patina color then layer with a universal patina or a dye oxide patina to add other colors.
Traditional Blue & Green patinas for Bronze, Brass, & Copper.
* Always allow these patinas days to fully develop before applying a clear sealer.
CUPRIC NITRATE – Hot Patina for Bronze, Brass, and Copper.
Clean the metal first as with any other patina.This patina is a hot patina only.Spray or brush on the Cupric Nitrate.Rinsing the patina is optional.Rinsing will “smooth” out the patina.This patina looks great directly on the metal, as well as over a base brown patina such as liver of sulfur, Birchwood Casey M-20 or M-24, or Ferric Nitrate.If used on iron or steel rust will occur.It is helpful to spray or brush with acetone before applying a clear sealer – this will dry out the patina.Applying wax directly to the patina will darken it significantly.Try spraying with the sealer first then waxing.Indoor or outdoor patina. Don’t use on aluminum.
*Note this patina may cause ‘Red Bronze Disease” if it is put on silicon bronze outdoors.To help eliminate this, add a pinch of zinc dust to the patina.
Powder Blue Patina – Cold patina for bronze, brass, or copper.
This is a stable blue for outdoor work.
Clean the metal first as with any other patina.Spray, brush, or sponge on the patina.Let the reaction work for 2-6 hours.
Reapply if a deeper color is desired.No rinsing is necessary.This patina may also be used on our metal coating – of course no rinsing on the metal coating.
If used on iron or steel it will cause rust.
Indoor or outdoor patina.Don’t use on aluminum.Set with a clear sealer when done.It is helpful to spray or brush with acetone before applying the sealer – this will dry out the patina.
More Cold Patina for Bronze, Brass, or Copper:
Blue – Use in the same manner as Powder Blue.This is a very old formula; it is not stable outside, use the Powder Blue for those applications.
Tiffany Green – Use in the same manner as Powder Blue.This is a beautiful stable green.If it is overlapped or applied heavily the color will tend to go a little blue.Tiffany Green tends to be slow to react, but worth the wait.Let it sit over night to see the results, then reapply as necessary.
Light Green – Use in the same manner as Powder Blue.This is a beautiful stable green outside.It may tend to ‘pop off if applied too heavily.Mist on lightly and let it react, then reapply if necessary to deepen the color.This patina tends to have some yellows in it.This patina reacts quickly.
Mint Green – This is a great hardworking patina.It is an exception in that it may be used hot or cold.No chance of red bronze disease with this one, it is a good substitute for Cupric Nitrate – statue of liberty color.
Transparent, Traditional Brown Patinas for Bronze, Brass, & Copper:
1. Liver of Sulfur for Bronze, Brass, & Copper
Liver of sulfur is a very old base patina. It even works well for large outside bronzes, because it is relatively easy to apply and provides an attractive and relatively warm brown. You must mix this solution fresh each time you patina, it will keep only one or two days once mixed in water. The chemical in the bottle does not keep well either. Store in a cool dry area.
Liver of sulfur 1 teaspoon
Water (warm) 1 pint
Liver of sulfur must be washed thoroughly before any other patinas are applied.
Cold Technique: Using a brush, bottles, or sponge, evenly cover the surface of the bronze. Let the bronze set for 5 minutes; then wash the bronze in cold water to neutralize the liver of sulfur. You may wish to use steel wool or a 3M pad to highlight the sculpture. For a darker color, use additional liver of sulfur.
Hot Technique: Heat the metal with a torch until it is hot to the touch; then apply the sulfur solution sparingly with a brush, using circular or stippling motions and working across the surface until the desired color is established. The patina will turn dark very fast when the metal is hot, so if you require a light brown, use less liver of sulfur in the water solution. You may need to burnish the surface with steel wool or scotch brite to even the patina.
This patina seems to darken over time. There is no way to stop the change in color. You may wish to use one of the other browns.
2. Mahogany Patina For Bronze, Brass, and Copper
This is a beautiful brown patina you may wish to use instead of Liver. On a polished surface a beautiful transparent brown patina can form with swirls of color. On a non-polished surface a nice brown will occur. For cold Technique: Shake or mix the patina well and apply evenly to the metal surface with a brush. Let the patina sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Repeat if necessary to darken the color. Rinsing is optional, do not rinse if you are using the Mahogany as a base coat, leaving it on make the next patina more intense, especially the cold greens. By not rinsing, the patina will darken in time like a liver of sulfur patina.
If used in a hot technique iridescent will form.
After the patina has dried you may wax or apply a lacquer
3. Ferric Nitrate/Ferric Chloride
Cold patina for Bronze, Brass, or Copper, or the Metal Coatings
If used on iron or steel it will make a rust/brown. (Real rust)
Clean the metal first as with any other patina.
Apply with a brush, spray bottle or sponge If put on full strength it will make a dark brown. If diluted by 50 % distilled water it will make rust/brown.
On real metal only - If you rinse it with warm water it will make rust-brown.
This patina may be used on our coating for rust/brown -
Of course no rinsing on the metal coating.
Indoor or outdoor patina. Don't use on aluminum
4. Ferric Nitrate
Hot Patina for Bronze, Brass, & Copper
Clean the metal first as with any other patina. If put on full strength it will make a dark brown. If diluted by 50 % distilled water it will make a rust/brown.
On real metal only - If you rinse it with warm water it will make rust-brown.
This patina may be used on our coating for a rust brown -
Of course no rinsing on the metal coating.
If used on iron or steel it will make a rust/brown. (Real rust)
Indoor or outdoor patina. Don't use on aluminum
5. Japanese Brown -
Hot or Cold Patina for Iron and Steel
This is a remarkable discovery for Sculpt Nouveau. Japanese Brown is a real chemical reaction on the metal surface.
Clean the metal surface before application.
If the metal is smooth it will be a shinier patina, if the metal surface is sandblasted it will look more satin. Rust will occur if a clear sealer is not applied quickly after drying. The patina may be applied in a Hot or Cold technique. Heat will darken the color as well as make it modeled. No need to rinse. For indoor or outdoor use. Don't use on aluminum.
6. Golden Bronze Patina
Hot or Cold Patina for Iron and Steel
Apply as directed for the Japanese Brown. A lighter, more golden color than the Japanese Brown will result.
BIRCHWOOD CASEY Patina
Made By: Birchwood Casey
Birchwood Casey is a chemical solution that we have found works well as a way to darken the patina, metal, or Metal Coating color. It is somewhat like a liver of sulfur or ammonium sulfide patina. The formula is old - you may know of it as "gun bluing". Basically it turns the metal darker or "aged". Birchwood Casey makes different formulas for the different metals. For copper, Bronze, and Brass there are choices of Brown or Black, brush on or dip. There are separate formulas for Iron, Steel, & Aluminum. The patina solution comes concentrated and then diluted 3 parts of distilled water to one part Birchwood Casey. The samples from sculpt Nouveau have been diluted for you. Using the solution too strong will cause many problems.
Birchwood Casey products may be used directly on the Metal Coatings as a patina or apply it over a patina. When you are working with the Metal Coating you will need to follow the same instructions you would for applying a patina. For example, the Metal Coating "A" the Birchwood Casey would be applied over the wet Metal Coating or wet Metal Coating with patinas. When using the "B" or "C" Metal Coatings you may apply the Birchwood Casey when the Coatings are wet or dry.
In some cases you may see some white areas form along with the darker areas on the Metal Coating. The reaction will be different with each Metal Coating type, metal type, or over each patina. Reds may become more red, greens more blue-green, etc.
This product may be the only patina used or it could be a base for more layers of patina colors.
WATER BASE DYE-OXIDES
Made By: Sculpt Nouveau
The Water Based Dye-Oxide Patinas are very versatile. They are a cross between the Solvent Base Dyes and a patina. All of the colors are transparent and may be blended or layered together to achieve the color you want. They do not contain acids.
The Dye Oxides may be applied directly onto any metal including Iron, Steel, or Aluminum. They may be used in a hot or cold technique. We recommend using them in the hot technique when applying directly on a metal surface. The Dye Oxides may be applied over any other patina solution while it is wet or dry to alter the color. They are so compatible with patinas that the Dye Oxides could be added into another patina formula. For example: if your green acid patina was not green enough for you - the green Dye Oxide could be added into your formula thus changing the color.
These, as with all our patinas and colors, work very well over the metal coatings also. Use with the cold technique.
When working with Iron, Steel, or Aluminum the water base Dye Oxides look great when applied in or over the Birchwood Casey "darkener" (Presto Black.) The Dye Oxides do not cause rust so they may be used hot or cold on these metals. A clear sealer is needed when the patina is finished and dry to protect from oxidation. It is possible to clear powder coat over the Dye Oxides.
Apply the Water Base Dye Oxides in any manner to achieve the look you desire; spray, sponge, brush, etc. The iridescent Powder may be added also. The colors may be thinned with distilled water in order to lighten the color.
All Dye Oxide colors are UV safe and may be used indoors or outdoors.
SOLVENT DYES
Made By: Sculpt Nouveau
These Solvent Dyes were designed as a tool to enable you to apply a difficult color (violet, red…), to apply color to a difficult material (steel, glass, resin….), to change or enhance an existing color, or to repair a damaged finish.
The dyes are to be blended with each other to create the colors you want. There is no color or shade that cannot be made with these dyes. All the primary and secondary colors are transparent. The white color is opaque. Adding white to the transparent colors will make opaque colors and pastels.
The colors are very concentrated. Dilute the Dyes with the Dye Thinner to obtain the desired transparency. We suggest that the Dye Thinner not be used more than 30% by volume to the Dye. To make a very faint, or extremely transparent color, add the Dye to a solvent lacquer (like Permalac) and apply.
The Solvent Dyes may be used directly on any material, including glass. The surface may need to be slightly roughed if it is too smooth, to help the dye bind. The dyes may be applied directly on galvanize metal, non-ferrous metal, ferrous metal, and aluminum without corrosion occurring. The dyes will duplicate any chemical patina color directly on the metal surface, or create a new look. The dyes look great over any leaf product or non-reactive metal like gold or silver. Drop the Dyes into resins, epoxies, or wax, and mix to tint the color.
The Dye may be applied over the dry Metal Coating and may also be applied over a patinaed surface. This makes altering a patina-gone-wrong very easy. You may slightly change the color by adding some Dyes to the final Clear Protective Sealer.
The Dyes may be applied in any manner. Each different application technique will change the way the Dyes appear. Sponging will give texture as with a cold patina. An airbrush will create an even coloring as with a hot patina. The Dyes are very easy to manipulate.
A protective clear sealer is necessary after the Dye has dried, unless the sealer was the majority of the mix applied. Always spray on the final protective clear sealer or there is a risk of disturbing the Dye finish. The Dyes may be re-worked after they have dried by applying more Dye over them. More Dye may be layered over the protective sealer also. * Be sure to reapply another layer of protective sealer when finished.
Protect your hands and work area. Wear a breather mask and work in a well-ventilated area. Clean up tools and such with denatured alcohol.
Please refer to the Dye Instruction Book for more information.
SOLVENT DYE THINNER
Made By: Sculpt Nouveau
The Dye Thinner is used to dilute or thin the dyes, as the Solvent Dyes are very concentrated. By adding the Dye Thinner to the Dyes, the color will be more transparent. Do not substitute with another thinner. Sculpt Nouveau Dye Thinner has UV inhibitors, corrosive inhibitors for all metals, and binders that will help maintain the integrity of the dyes. The Dye Thinner "spreads" the dye when applied to the surface of your material that has dye on it, like nothing else will.
If you want to apply only a very slight transparent color or shading we suggest that you add the Solvent Dye to a good clear coating that has UV inhibitors and binders - like Permalac brand, instead of using the Dye Thinner.
* The Dyes are now UV stable in all colors, so dilute as little or as much as you need to achieve the color you want.
Protective CLEAR SEALERS
A protective Clear Sealer would be used to protect material from the environment or to set a finish. Iron, Steel and Aluminum need a protective coating to keep from oxidizing or rusting. A polished surface on Bronze, Brass, or Copper will tarnish without protection. After achieving a patina or color on you material, the protective coating will help it last longer and help to keep it from changing. We suggest applying a clear coating in almost every instance. The best way to apply any brand of clear sealer is to spray it on. Spraying reduces bubbles and ridges formed by the brush, which help to break down the product faster. Small propellant applicators are available, made by Badger or Crown, if you do not have a compressor. Two or three light coats are preferable to one heavy coating. Letting each dry before applying the next.
No protective sealer will last forever. A regular maintenance program is needed and should be scheduled according to the individual conditions. Wax may be applied over the clear sealer to add even more protection.
Made By: Stan Peacock Labs - Permalac
For all metals – lasts 10 years outside - This protective Clear Sealer contains UV inhibitors as will as binders. Use the Permalac Clear Sealer over you finished work. Permalac does not darken a polished surface. It is a very strong, thin, fast drying solvent lacquer that doesn’t yellow or peel. This lacquer seems to go into the finish and bind onto the material - which is great if you have a very thick powdery patina, or rusted surface. For extremely thick finishes, you may find it advisable to thin the lacquer with its corresponding thinner. It is possible to apply Permalac over most anything, even one thin layer of wax, although this will slow the drying time.
We have found that Permalac Lacquer works very well with the Solvent Dyes. By adding a small amount of Solvent Dye to the Permalac Lacquer, you will be able to apply a very transparent color. The iridescent powder goes into the lacquer as well. Apply the Clear Sealer with dyes, Powders, or both, directly on your material, over the Metal Coating, or over patinas. Repeating layers of colors may create an interesting finish.
A matting agent is available for Permalac – although not really necessary as it has a satin finish. Waxing over the lacquer will matt the surface some also. Or, spray lightly with a matte fix available in art stores
Use in a well-ventilated area and wear a breather mask.
WAX
Cold Patinas:
Wax should only be used on a cold patina after you have applied at least two coats of either a solvent or Water Based Clear coating. Allow each layer of Clear coat to dry fully. Apply the wax to the surface with a brush, allow to dry 2 to 3 hours then buff with a terry cloth type rag.
For Bronze, Brass, Copper, or the Metal Coatings with a crusty patina you may choose not to use a Clear coat at all, lacquers and waxes can alter the color. In that case a light spray of a matte fix by Grumbracher or Windsor Newton) will do.
Hot Patinas:
Wax may be applied immediately after finishing the patina, while the metal is still hot. Apply the wax with a brush. Allow the wax to cool, dry, and harden for 4 hours or more. Polish with a terry cloth rag and repeat with a second coat of the wax, this time the surface will be cool. After several hours, buff again. Solvent lacquer may be applied over a layer of wax. The drying time of the lacquer is greatly increased.
As with the cold patinas you may not want to apply wax immediately to some (cupric-green/blue) patinas as it may change the look. Let the patina cool then spray on a lacquer, let this dry six hours then apply the wax a usual.
Maintenance:
Lightly clean the surface every six months or as needed with a non-ionic soap (Amway makes one). Dry completely and reapply a new layer of wax with a brush. When dry, buff as before. If the wax is maintained regularly there is a good chance the Clear Sealer will never be damaged
1. New Wax From Sculpt Nouveau
Sculpt Nouveau's wax is made with binders, rust, and UV inhibitors. It is ideal for Iron, Steel, and Aluminum. We also make a version for Bronze, Brass, and Copper. We have taken everything good we know of for finishing metal and added to our wax. The wax creates a very beautiful, hard protective coating once dry. The wax will be soft in the container. Apply to a hot or cold surface. Try not to let the wax fill up in the recessed areas as it may turn white. Use a toothbrush or soft brush to remove the excess wax from these areas. If you are waxing on a cold surface, buff the wax within a few minutes. If you are apply the wax to a hot surface, let the surface cool down, then buff. Do not wait very long to buff in any circumstance as the wax soon dries too hard to buff.
We make the wax already tinted also. Or, you may tint the wax yourself with the solvent dyes.
This wax is great over another clear protective coating or used alone. It also works well over a rusted surface or patina although for outdoor metal we recommend applying a marine varnish over the rust, and then apply the wax.
2. Liberon Professional
This particular wax was chosen because it gives a thin, hard surface protection. It does not allow dust to stick and gum the finish, nor does it turn yellow over time, or break down quickly in the sun. The wax may be tinted with Sculpt Nouveau's Solvent Dyes to add a slight color to your finish.
3. Tree Wax Professional Clear
This seems to be a great wax also. It is easy to find and less expensive. Buy the type with carnauba.
|
Green Business